Thursday 29 August 2013

Perfume Review: Chanel Allure Homme Sport: Eau Extrême

A 100ml (3.4oz) flacon of Eau Extrême
Special thanks to Chanel Fragrance and Beauty Boutique at Chadstone (Melbourne). 

(Review based on wrist and card samples, and use on person from retail bottle and 10ml limited-distribution bottle)

Target Gender: Male; Price Bracket (Aus): Medium ($140+). Type: Citrus/Woody.

In the earlier days of my love affair with all things fragrance, I had tried a few Chanel scents on cards and didn't think much of them. However, a house of such repute wasn't going to be dismissed so easily, and indeed on second encounter with them, I consider this one of my favourite houses.

Allure Homme Sport: Eau Extrême, like most Chanel fragrances released after the early 80s, has been signed off by Jacques Polge as the perfumer, and he's done a bloody fine job with this one.

The first thing I would point out about this scent: The name is somewhat a misnomer. This is not exactly a "sporty" fragrance like Allure Homme Sport, and neither is it an "extreme" version of the latter. It opens like Allure Homme Sport, but settles down to something resembling the male version of Allure Sensuelle with its projection greatly magnified.  If I were to name it, it would be "Allure De La Nuit".

The opening note is a sharp, citrusy accord with mint. The notes pyramid lists orange, mint, sage and cypress. My perception of the citrus is quite prominent, held along nicely by the mint. The top is cold, fresh and sharp, and this is probably the closest this fragrance goes to being "Sporty".

The moment the citrus/mint combo mellow down a bit, tonka bean becomes quite noticeable, and from the mid onwards is the dominant note in the scent. The middle has a distinct pungency (pepper) that blends with the tonka bean shortly after showing up. The Tonka bean gets stronger towards the base, where supporting notes of wood and musk join in. The wood is a mixture of earthy and spicy (cedar and sandalwood as the bottle said in the boutique).

The woods play a supporting role; the tonka bean is by a distance the most dominant note, but it doesn't get sweet enough to be cloying or feminine. The musk is discernible but not a headline note. To me, this is a 2-layer rather than 3-layer scent. The tonka bean overlaps the pepper and wood/musk, which makes it a base note that transforms a bit rather than a distinct mid.

The concentration it's sold in is Eau De Toilette Concentré, which to me is little more than a synonym for an EdP. Longevity is excellent, and so is projection. Samples on my wrist and neck lasted on average about 7-8 hours, and it is noticeable from several feet away for the first few. The scent is versatile, but quite potent and will be perceptible on the wearer from a distance. And this is why I'm personally inclined to label this a night scent. "Easy on the trigger" is another thing to remember with this one.

The bottle is opaque grey, and the same shape as the rest of the Allure Homme range, which in turn is a more squat version of the Allure series (for women) bottle. The atomiser dispenses a well-balanced amount of liquid; it wont have you spraying a dozen times to get a decent dose, but will easily deliver an overdose at anything beyond 3 sprays for a scent of this potency.

As the name would have made it apparent, this one isn't intended to be an intimate, close-range scent. It smells very nice, but it is too strong to be worn when you'll be in very close proximity to someone for an extended period. I recommend it without much hesitation, but if close-range scents are your thing, you might prefer Allure Homme instead.

Ratings:
4.5/5...Interesting composition, well-suited for night-time wear; long-lasting, versatile, and priced well for a Chanel scent.

Prices:
RRP: AU$105 / AU$144 / AU$173 for 50ml / 100ml / 150ml (L/E)
UVP: 50ml $2.1/ml, 100ml $1.44/ml, 150ml $1.15/ml
Click for more information on UVP

Chanel does not allow discounting of their products, and doesn't run GWP offers either. 150ml or larger bottles are occasionally sold as limited editions, and are much cheaper in UVP terms.

Stockists: Myer, David Jones, Chanel Fashion and Fragrance Boutiques, some pharmacies.

No comments:

Post a Comment