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| A 90ml EdP bottle of Opium |
Target Gender: Female; Price Bracket (Aus): Medium-High ($150+ for EDT, $180+ for EDP). Type: Spicy/Oriental. YSL Beauty is a brand of L'Oreal.
I have something going for the
house of YSL. Yes, it's one of L'Oreal's darling child brands with all the
tinkering around that the corporate giant is famous for, but it remains responsible for some very nice fragrances. YSL does
now have the habit of releasing enough flankers
for scents that do well that Parisienne could be a house in itself, and L'Homme
could be diagnosed with uncontrolled flankeritis (although this is by no
means unique to them). But overall this house
remains among my favourites.
Let's have a look at one of their
flagship fragrances, the very aptly (and controversially in its early days)
named Opium. The formula appears to have undergone a change or two since its launch in 1977, and the bottle design has changed a fair bit since launch, but the fragrance retains its warm, oriental soul.
At first spritz, it opens with significant warmth, and has a faintly bergamot-dominated, citrusy top with just a hint of florals quietly making their way in. The notes pyramid lists both bergamot and orange, although I personally feel it's much more of a spice-infused, warm top with a hint of bergamot and some flowers. Amber and incense make their presence felt, but don't show their full intensity yet.
At first spritz, it opens with significant warmth, and has a faintly bergamot-dominated, citrusy top with just a hint of florals quietly making their way in. The notes pyramid lists both bergamot and orange, although I personally feel it's much more of a spice-infused, warm top with a hint of bergamot and some flowers. Amber and incense make their presence felt, but don't show their full intensity yet.
The middle starts to get much
more ambery, with the warmth of the amber soon joined by incense, and that is the framework for the
entire scent around which all the other notes congregate. There is a slight but distinct jasmine undertone as well around the middle,
coupled with what's probably carnation, because the jasmine doesn't stay solo
for much. The amber gets even stronger towards the base, and the two flowers
give way to a very slight hint of patchouli.
Even though listed in the notes
pyramid, I don't get a very pronounced vanilla element in this scent. The
vanilla does come through as a balancing element of sorts, making it a smooth
transition from one note to the next. However, this is not by any means a
creamy fragrance like Manifesto (YSL).
As far as the concentration goes,
the EdT and EdP smell much the same, except the EdP projecting further and lasting longer. A sample of the EdP on my wrist lasted about nine hours (impressive), while the EDT lasted about five hours (very good for an EdT in my opinion). I personally love this scent, but this one is a polarising fragrance. Few people will say they are indifferent to it...the ones who like it will love it, those who don't like it will stay well clear.
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| Current Bottles EDT on left, EDP on right; |
Opium does have a vibe of moderate intimacy, but it's
not as suggestive or seductive as the ads might imply. It may evoke feelings of some intimacy up close, but this isn't a Chanel
Allure or Lauder Sensuous. This isn't intended to be a skin scent either like Floral Romantique (Guerlain Elixir Charnel), and will make its point without the wearer needing to be proximate with people. Overall, a versatile scent that can do well in a variety of settings, but at its best at night-time, particularly in colder weather.
My recommendation? I don't recommend this as a blind buy. This is a very nice scent, but it's not a particularly "safe" or mainstream one. Its potency and loudness may be unsettling for some. Try it on the skin, and smell it over a few hours, as this fragrance transforms a fair bit over its life. The top is the loudest part, and while the middle and base are still loud, the perfume does get a tad bit subdued after a couple of hours. Even in that state, it is noticeable from a distance.
From an Australian context, this is a pricey perfume, and can be difficult to locate at substantial discounts.
Ratings: 3.9/5...Powerful, warm, elegant, beautiful, but at the same time a polarising scent that not everyone will be able to pull off, and not incredibly versatile either. Pricey to add to the mix.
From an Australian context, this is a pricey perfume, and can be difficult to locate at substantial discounts.
Ratings: 3.9/5...Powerful, warm, elegant, beautiful, but at the same time a polarising scent that not everyone will be able to pull off, and not incredibly versatile either. Pricey to add to the mix.
Disclosure: Review based on both wrist and card samples. No affiliation or compensation was involved.
Prices:
EDT: AU$120 / AU$160
/ AU$170 for 50ml / 90ml / 125ml
EDP: AU$135 / AU$185
for 50ml / 90ml
EDT: 50ml $2.4/ml, 90ml $1.78/ml, 125ml $1.36/ml
EDP: 50ml $2.7/ml, 90ml $2.06/ml
Stockists: Myer, David Jones (both official), some outlets of MyChemist and its sister stores (Chemist Warehouse, MyBeautySpot) may also stock it.
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