Target Gender: Female; Price Bracket (Aus): High ($200+). Category: Complex, semi-linear oriental vanilla/wood/fruit/floral combination.Review based on wrist and card samples. Special thanks to a very nice sales assistant from Chanel at David Jones Melbourne for sampling the scent on wrist. This review does not consider Allure Sensuelle. Pricing information provided by Chanel Boutique Chadstone and Chanel at David Jones Melbourne CBD.
My first encounter with Chanel Allure was a test-like-forget affair. Forward a couple of years, and this time, while purchasing my bottle of Eau Extrême, I tried this little gem on a card and on my wrist. The card sample attracted my attention, but the wrist sample had me thinking "Surely it can't be that good?"...
Still apprehensive, I requested the lovely sales assistant at the Chanel counter to volunteer and spray some on her wrist. And this time I was bowled over. This scent is absolutely jaw-dropping, knee-weakening, divinely good. Yes, it's that good. In a break from my usual style of reviewing, I'll slam a little spoiler here: this is my favourite scent by a furlong.
Allure came out in 1996 as an EdT, and the Parfum and EdP followed in 1999. They're similar in terms of their overall feel, but not exactly the same fragrance in differing concentrations. Like most post-80s Chanel scents, this one is also a Jacques Polge creation, and a good reminder of his perfumery prowess. It is scents like Sycomore, Coromandel, 31 Rue Cambon, Beige and Allure that make stereotyopical, conformist creations like Chance forgiveable.
This perfume can be defined in one word: complexity. This is a complex, multi-faceted scent that is very hard to shoe-horn into a distinct category. Even though it displays some element of note hierarchy, this perfume has no distinct top, mid or base proper. Allure has elements of bergamot, mandarin, peach, vanilla, jasmine, rose, magnolia, vetiver, cedar, orange blossom, lotus and peony.
None of the twelve notes except for peach and vanilla take the character of headline, mid or base note. Instead, they all play hide-and-seek for the life of the scent. I have come across complex scents before (L'Instant De Guerlain and Coco Mademoiselle for example) but Allure takes the meaning of complex linearity a bit literally...Mr. Polge has really outdone himself with this one.
At first spray (EdP), the opening is intense, and defiant of any attempts to define it as fruity, floral or woody. The opening has a citrusy undertone, with peach and the two woods (vetiver in particular) making their presence felt, and the citrusy notes discernible alongside. But the florals will be perceptible from time to time as well. The overall character keeps changing from perceptibly floral to properly woody to intense fruity, and any combinations of these.
As it sits on skin for a while, the peach gets fairly prominent, but vetiver and cedar are still perceptible. After about an hour or so, I thought of this scent as a very pleasant floral cocktail of rose, jasmine, magnolia and orange blossom (peony and lotus aren't too easily picked). But seconds later, I was reminded that the flowers were not there to reign, and peach, vetiver and cedar reared their heads again. And vanilla, which so far had been a mild, smoothing note showed up and made it almost a vanilla scent. This whole dance continues for the entire life of the scent.
Another couple of hours in, vanilla takes over from peach as the holding note, and the flowers, peach, the two citrus fruits (mandarin and bergamot), and the duo of woody notes (dry cedar and moist vetiver) again resurface strongly. There's no tango here, but a whole group performance of woods, bergamot and orange blossom on a vanilla stage. It could be said that Allure transforms from a fruity/floral/vetiver top to a woody/floral middle and a vanilla/wood/flower/fruit base.
I could keep describing the different permutations of notes this perfume exhibits over its life, but that is rather redundant. It would suffice to say that it shows characteristics of nearly everything in its note profile, throughout its life, and does so with aplomb. It doesn't get cloying, screechy or overpowering at any stage.
The Parfum is sold in the characteristic Chanel flacon with bevelled corners and a glass stopper. The EdP and EdT are sold in clear glass bottles that are thicker down the middle. The EdP and Parfum smell much the same; while the EdP is sharper and brighter, the Parfum sits closer to the skin and is softer and more sublime.
Longevity leaves no complaints behind: the EdP lasted about 13 hours, and the Parfum clocked a mind-boggling 27 hours on the back of my hand. Handwashes aside, the Parfum survived an assault from dishwashing detergent(!). The EdP projects to about a few feet for about an hour, then progressively gets closer and closer to skin till it gets to about 6-12 inches, where it stays till it dies out. The Parfum projects about 6-12 inches throughout.
This is a very feminine, very intimate and quite a suggestive scent due to both its notes and finely balanced sillage. It is very true to its name: it is Alluring. It draws attention from just the right distance, and has enough complexity and mystery in it to keep someone interested in the wearer. It doesn't overpower, doesn't characterise by one note, and doesn't trail far enough to attract anyone other than someone the wearer intentionally goes close enough to. This is not a generic, safe gift; it's a suggestively romantic, intimate scent that should be used or gifted with caution.
Price(unfortunately) prevents this scent from getting straight 5s on the scorecard. Being unchanged for several years, Australian prices for Chanel's female perfumes are in real need of revision; they are simply too high for the exchange rates over the past few years. Prices for the Les Exclusifs lineup and most skincare released post-2010 are well aligned with other regions, but the "core" perfume range still retains a sizeable price gap compared to Chanel's European pricing.
Still apprehensive, I requested the lovely sales assistant at the Chanel counter to volunteer and spray some on her wrist. And this time I was bowled over. This scent is absolutely jaw-dropping, knee-weakening, divinely good. Yes, it's that good. In a break from my usual style of reviewing, I'll slam a little spoiler here: this is my favourite scent by a furlong.
Allure came out in 1996 as an EdT, and the Parfum and EdP followed in 1999. They're similar in terms of their overall feel, but not exactly the same fragrance in differing concentrations. Like most post-80s Chanel scents, this one is also a Jacques Polge creation, and a good reminder of his perfumery prowess. It is scents like Sycomore, Coromandel, 31 Rue Cambon, Beige and Allure that make stereotyopical, conformist creations like Chance forgiveable.
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| 100ml EDP Bottle; The cap on the retail bottle is orange. |
None of the twelve notes except for peach and vanilla take the character of headline, mid or base note. Instead, they all play hide-and-seek for the life of the scent. I have come across complex scents before (L'Instant De Guerlain and Coco Mademoiselle for example) but Allure takes the meaning of complex linearity a bit literally...Mr. Polge has really outdone himself with this one.
At first spray (EdP), the opening is intense, and defiant of any attempts to define it as fruity, floral or woody. The opening has a citrusy undertone, with peach and the two woods (vetiver in particular) making their presence felt, and the citrusy notes discernible alongside. But the florals will be perceptible from time to time as well. The overall character keeps changing from perceptibly floral to properly woody to intense fruity, and any combinations of these.
As it sits on skin for a while, the peach gets fairly prominent, but vetiver and cedar are still perceptible. After about an hour or so, I thought of this scent as a very pleasant floral cocktail of rose, jasmine, magnolia and orange blossom (peony and lotus aren't too easily picked). But seconds later, I was reminded that the flowers were not there to reign, and peach, vetiver and cedar reared their heads again. And vanilla, which so far had been a mild, smoothing note showed up and made it almost a vanilla scent. This whole dance continues for the entire life of the scent.
Another couple of hours in, vanilla takes over from peach as the holding note, and the flowers, peach, the two citrus fruits (mandarin and bergamot), and the duo of woody notes (dry cedar and moist vetiver) again resurface strongly. There's no tango here, but a whole group performance of woods, bergamot and orange blossom on a vanilla stage. It could be said that Allure transforms from a fruity/floral/vetiver top to a woody/floral middle and a vanilla/wood/flower/fruit base.
I could keep describing the different permutations of notes this perfume exhibits over its life, but that is rather redundant. It would suffice to say that it shows characteristics of nearly everything in its note profile, throughout its life, and does so with aplomb. It doesn't get cloying, screechy or overpowering at any stage.
The Parfum is sold in the characteristic Chanel flacon with bevelled corners and a glass stopper. The EdP and EdT are sold in clear glass bottles that are thicker down the middle. The EdP and Parfum smell much the same; while the EdP is sharper and brighter, the Parfum sits closer to the skin and is softer and more sublime.
Longevity leaves no complaints behind: the EdP lasted about 13 hours, and the Parfum clocked a mind-boggling 27 hours on the back of my hand. Handwashes aside, the Parfum survived an assault from dishwashing detergent(!). The EdP projects to about a few feet for about an hour, then progressively gets closer and closer to skin till it gets to about 6-12 inches, where it stays till it dies out. The Parfum projects about 6-12 inches throughout.
This is a very feminine, very intimate and quite a suggestive scent due to both its notes and finely balanced sillage. It is very true to its name: it is Alluring. It draws attention from just the right distance, and has enough complexity and mystery in it to keep someone interested in the wearer. It doesn't overpower, doesn't characterise by one note, and doesn't trail far enough to attract anyone other than someone the wearer intentionally goes close enough to. This is not a generic, safe gift; it's a suggestively romantic, intimate scent that should be used or gifted with caution.
Ratings:
EdP: 4.9/5...Incredibly complex, very well-balanced, warm and seductive vibe, excellent profile of projection, marathon longevity...this is seduction in a bottle. Price could be better though.
(Balance of notes 5, Projection 5, Longevity 5, Value 3.5, bonus points* 0.3)
(Balance of notes 5, Projection 5 Longevity 5, Value 3, bonus points* 0.3)
Prices (Australia RRP):
Eau De Parfum Spray Bottle: AU$116 / AU$159 / AU$234 for 35ml / 50ml / 100ml
Pure Parfum: AU$175ml for 7.5ml
Pure Parfum: AU$175ml for 7.5ml
UVP: EDP 35ml $3.31/ml, EDP 50ml $3.18/ml, EDP 100ml $2.34/ml, Pure Parfum $23.3/ml
Click for more information on UVP
The Parfum in this scent is priced very poorly on UVP terms; Pure Parfum concentrations of No.5 sell in larger sizes (AU$270/15ml and AU$436/30ml) which makes the 7.5ml bottle very pricey in comparison. EdP is priced the same as all female Chanel scents barring Coco Noir and the Les Exclusifs lineup. Coco Mademoiselle and No.5 also have 200ml bottles, but Allure tops out at 100ml.
Stockists: Chanel Fragrance and Beauty Boutiques, Chanel counters and Myer and David Jones, selected pharmacies. Chanel pricing is uniform across all authorised stockists, and no discounts are generally applicable. I haven't seen Allure being stocked by any independent retailers.
*Bonus points of 0.3 to each awarded under "subjective assessment" category.
great review , wow i just blind bought the pure parfum of ebay , i hope i love it , having no top mid or base is a bit worrying lol.
ReplyDeletei was hoping for a powdery perfume a bit like no 5 ? we will see :)
im sooo excited to try it !
Oooooooooh just got this in pure parfum
ReplyDeleteIt's exquisite.
On me the fruits are notable but you were right about it changing
A lot.
Great review by the way :)
Oooh I love this one, allure EDP and parfum are both amazing. They remind me of marmalade lol. Just beautiful, great review by way.
ReplyDelete